Via dell'Amore

When I was on my solo journey around Italy, I encountered the most lovely Australian woman.  As I see all of these hearts, candy, and diamonds on display I am reminded of our conversation.  Rather than throwing up pink and red, I generally try to remember it as the day Arizona officially became a State.  

For the life of me I can't remember her name.  It was something ending an "-ene", so for all intents and purposes I will call her Irene.  Which very well could be her name, I just refuse to recall such a detail.  Irene was staying in my six person hostel room in Levanto, a small village just north of famous Cinque Terre. I met her after we had both had a very long, tiring day but were faced with the reality that we were not only sleeping in a bunk bed, but there were 3 other bunk beds in the room.  The awful/wonderful thing of hostels is that you're so tired from sightseeing that generally you can just fall asleep, given any bed arrangement.  This was the beginning of my journey, so I was feeling a little awkward after having the luxury of a room to myself at Margherita's home.  But after five minutes of speaking with Irene, I felt quite at ease. 


Manarola, Cinque Terre Italia
She had just spent the day hiking through Cinque Terre, which is the general title for the 5 small villages along the northwestern coast of Italy.  These charming villages are best reached by train, but hiking to and from them is quite beautiful.  As Irene, who looked more Irish than Australian, brushed her strawberry blonde hair, she recapped her day and gave me recommendations as to what to see the next day.  When she spoke of the walk through Via dell'Amore, a paved footpath along the rocky seacoast between the towns of Riomaggiore and Manarola, her eyes lit up.  We began talking with others in the room then went to sleep so I did not have the opportunity to ask more details about it then. 
 
The following morning, we both had an early train to catch so we walked to the station together.  On the way we decided to stop and get a cappuccino.  Now I still marvel at the simplicity of interacting with someone you know that you will never see again.  You can choose which information to share about yourself knowing full well the impression you leave with them is whatever you make it to be.  Irene was traveling alone through Italy on a two week stop over before heading to Japan to visit her husband.  He worked and lived there, while she worked and lived in Australia.  They had been doing this long distance marriage for ten years now.  Her husband, who is Japanese, has a great job there that provides for their family and allows them to put their girls through school.  Rather than try to get citizenship of Japan it has been easier for Irene to visit for extended periods of time with a visitors visa.  I have heard of some long distance relationships defined as anywhere from 100-3000 miles away, but this one takes the cake.  The way Irene described her marriage and this set up made me feel a great deal of respect for her.  Although it has not been easy, they have made it work all of these years because of their intention for one another.  They are still committed in this time of living far apart.


Because the Cinque Terre villages were somewhat isolated prior to pathways and trains, rarely did one marry from outside of their town.  The name for Via dell'Amore (Lovers' Lane) derived from the post World War II lovers meeting point for people that were from the two separate villages.  Scattered along the pathway are decades of graffiti messages from courting couples.  On the Manarola side, there are hundreds of locks secured to the gates to symbolize their eternal love for one another.  Lovers inscribe their initials on them and then throw the key into the sea so their love is locked forever.
Via dell'Amore, Cinque Terre Italia

Irene secured a lock for her and her husband when she walked through Via dell'Amore, symbolizing their love that expands between two countries.  As we said our farewell on the train, Irene and I enjoyed our moment of the sharing the meaningful little details of our lives that seemed pertinent for our conversation.  In the sentimental custom of celebrating St.Valentine's Day, I hope Irene and her husband are spending it together.  Cheers mate.

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